Returning to the New River Gorge After Three Decades
Writer Chris Weidner recounts returning to West Virginia’s New River Gorge this October at age 52, more than three decades after his initial visit in 1995. The trip brought together a group of five climbers who spent six days climbing the area's famous Nuttall Sandstone, a formation composed of roughly 98 percent quartz that climbers refer to as "bulletproof." Unlike his first trip, which was marked by heat and rain, the autumn conditions offered dry rock, clear skies, and cool temperatures.
The group tackled several routes across the gorge, encountering stiff grades and widely-spaced bolts that are characteristic of the region. Among the climbs attempted was Apollo Reed, a steep sport route above Summersville Lake. Weidner noted that watching three younger climbers fall on the route preceded his own successful ascent on the final day of the trip, following a previous day’s failure at the crux.
Generational Perspectives and Climbs at The New
The essay details the varied experiences of the climbing partners, spanning different age brackets and ability levels. Evan Jaeger fell on a route called Animal Logic (5.12b), while his younger brother Fritz successfully redpointed Thunderstruck after a strenuous effort near the top bolts. Jonathan Lagoe, at 70 years old, used precise footwork to onsight a less-than-vertical route featuring tiny edges on the D.C. Memorial Boulder, marking his hardest route of the week. David, 54, successfully completed a route he had last climbed years prior before other commitments interrupted his climbing schedule.
Weidner described his own successful ascent of Apollo Reed as an exercise in pacing rather than youthful energy. By utilizing rehearsed movements and resting where possible, he reached the anchor, though he reflected that the primary value of the excursion lay in the shared experience among friends across generations.
